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WOW
- Women on Waves
Fall
and winter time swells can get pretty big. On one particular
cool autumn day, beautiful well formed waves were roaring
in. Some waves were as high as 10 feet or slightly more.
The sound of the crashing waves resonated like a sustained
musical bass note. Smooth olive green salt water rose
high towards the sky as another set of outside waves
prepared to crest and meet the rocky reef below.
A
lone surfer sitting out much further then the pack of
20 or so surfers began paddling out. Like an on coming
freight train the procession of waves could now be seen
by all of the surfers. Barely making it over the first
two waves the lead paddler maneuvered into perfect position
to take off on the third and biggest wave of the set.
Spinning around in the steepest most critical part of
the wave this surfer confidently stroked into a vertical
face. Simultaneouslyy with the falling lip the rider
took the steep drop down into the belly of the wave,
turned off the bottom and trimmed for another 100 yards
finishing a fantastic ride. Hooting and yells of approval
and excitement filled the air. As if exhausted from
the barrage of energy, the ocean appeared to take a
break and was now calm. No less then 15 surfers had
been washed in after being caught off guard by the set.
The
lone surfer to ride a wave met up with the others and
they began to paddle back out. "Great wave"
someone yelled "Totally awesome" exhorted
another. In the spirit of unity everyone was genuinely
stoked for the surfer having claimed what all surfers
refer to as "The wave of the day!"
This
true story is not out of the ordinary, in fact every
time the swell is up someone will catch the wave of
the day. Where this story gets more interesting is when
you find out the surfer catching this wave of the day
is a girl. The guys out surfing knowing first hand the
full extent of the athletic feat she had just accomplished
were slightly in awe and respect was definitely flowing.
With
women entering into the sport of surfing currently at
record levels many people erroneously think this is
the latest craze. Many believe this is a fad brought
on by an onslaught of media and print.
An
example is the movie Blue Crush. A fictional film where
girls surf circles around their male counterparts. They
make fools of big strong football players who long to
be with the hard bodied bikini clad surfing sirens.
In turns out Charlie's Angles are surfers in their new
thriller due out next summer.
In
real life Brazilian super model Gisele Bundchen, singing
sensation Jewel, mega star Brittany Spears, actress
Demi Moore and reggae legend Sister Carol have all ridden
waves. Girls and women all over the world are finding
out first hand the pleasures and benefits surfing offers.
At first it may seem like the male dominated sport of
surfing is being invaded by the opposite sex, this is
not true. In reality surfing is returning to a natural
balance of boys and girls. This is how surfing originally
started out.
According
to historical records surfing's egalitarian society
was enjoyed by men and women, boys and girls. Whole
villages would come out to surf at the same time. Many
of the best surfers were women and their return to prominence
in surfing is a positive step forward for everyone.
Perhaps increased participation by the ladies in surfing
is a harbinger and reflection of women's abilities to
excel in all fields of their choice.
Women
aren't just conquering waves, their presence is being
increasingly felt in many once male dominated arenas.
Americans now have women news casters,executive editors,
astronauts, and government leaders. Condelezza Reese,
Barbra Fienstein, and the recently elected first female
governor from the state of Hawaii, Linda Linglel are
examples of women with strong leadership, outstanding
character and are an inspiration to many. Back to the
subject of surfing and women, the first question asked
by President Bush in a congratulatory call to Hawaii's
governor Lingle was, "Is the surf up?".
Women
should be encouraged to pursue opportunities of their
choice and should never be discouraged or intimidated.
As today's female surfers are visably demonstrating,
women can and do surf equally as well as the guys, and
in some cases better. If given the chance women can,
do, and will excel while contributing immensely to our
society and the world. Who knows maybe one day we will
have a female president who surfs. Sea you in the surf.
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