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Big Wave Spirit
Tidal wave
surfers dare to go were no man (or living thing) has
ever gone before. Fewer men have surfed waves over 50
feet than have traveled into space, climbed the highest
mountains or explored the deepest seas. To go were others
have not requires courage, faith and pure pioneer spirit.
Mankind's understanding and growth is a result of those
who dared to go first, dared to pioneer the way whether
mentally, physically or spiritually. What is achieved
by only a few raises the level of human accomplishment
and triumph for all. To succeed at big wave surfing
one must fully possess the pioneer spirit. Big wave
surfers like other leading edge pioneers are in touch
with personal feelings by being completely self-aware,
totally self -thinking and extremely self- reliant.
Self-thinking
and self-reliance begin with listening deep with in
to your own feelings. Self-awareness is the first step
in every journey. The surfers who don't have knowledge
or self-reliance survive by listening to their gut feelings.
If it doesn't feel right don't rush it. Those who ignore
their feelings do so at their own peril. Though others
can influence how we feel no one can feel for us. Before
one begins to explore new territory such as surfing
larger waves or anything else one has to be honest with
them self and take a look with in. Big wave surfers
have learned to listen to themselves first. The crowd
may be saying go, you yourself may really want to go
but if something doesn't feel right it's best to check
with your feelings before making your mind up. One of
the worst things in surfing or life is to do something
your not completely sure about.
Summer was
just ending and two surfers were preparing for the wintertime
swells by doing a little underwater free diving. To
make the diving more challenging and fun this pair had
decided to dive through long dark underwater lava tubes
that varied in depth and length. Both were successful
going through some of the shorter tunnels and after
awhile decided to attempt some of the longer ones. Taking
a breath the surfers' dove down peering into the entrance
of a long a tunnel to see where it came out. Though
both surfers new what they were doing one of the two
was hesitant. Something didn't feel right to him, he
was apprehensive to go for it. Though this surfer felt
unsure if his friend was going for it he would to. Taking
a deep breath both submerged and headed into the tunnel
that was narrow enough to prevent turning around. Unfortunately
just before making it to the end of the under sea tunnel
and to the surface the hesitant surfer ran out of air.
Trying to surface to soon this surfer scraped his back
and head against the top of the cave. Seeing his friend
in trouble the other surfer came to his rescue by pulling
him down and out of the tunnel the rest of the way to
fresh air. Fortunately besides a few scrapes and scratches
he was all right, hopefully next time he will trust
his own feelings.
Experienced
big wave surfers know they have to think for themselves.
Many times when the waves are high surfers in the line-up
will depend on other surfers to determine where to sit
or when to paddle. They will choose a surfer who is
doing good to sit close to thinking this person knows
where the best spot to be is rather than using their
own judgment. Real big wave surfers have a field day
when it comes to surfers who don't think for themselves.
It is not uncommon for an experienced surfer to paddle
way off the line up on purpose to lead the pact off
the peak, and they follow! Once everyone has moved the
surfer will go back to the best place just in time to
catch the best wave. Sometimes a good surfer will fake
paddling for a wave just to see the crowd paddle and
then quickly pull back to catch the following more perfect
wave. Surfers or anyone who thinks for them self has
a great advantage over those who don't.
Though feeling
and thinking can be instant self-reliance takes a great
deal of time and practice to become efficient at it.
Self-reliance comes from experience. Big wave surfers
know if something goes wrong no one is coming to get
them and they are not counting on anyone coming to the
rescue. The attitude of a big wave surfer is if he gets
himself out he get himself back in, he should put no
one at risk but himself. Before surfing big waves surfers
prepare by staying in shape, attaining as much information
as they can about big wave surfing and the ocean and
by getting the right equipment to get the job done.
Whether on top of the largest wave or under the water
during the deepest wipeout a big wave surfer has only
one person to depend on-himself.
There will
always be new frontiers to explore and challenges to
over come in surfing, our own personal lives and for
mankind as a whole. Individuals who dare to go where
others have never been will see and experience things
others never will but to do this the pioneer spirit
is needed. The pioneer big wave spirit is inside everyone
and everyone has access to it. First check with and
listen to your feelings to see if you are ready or how
something feels to you. If your feelings compel you
forward go forward. Think for yourself. No matter what
anyone else says or does take it in consideration but
above all think for yourself. If you are not thinking
for yourself then who is? Be self-reliant. Surfers who
are self- reliant depend only on themselves giving them
confidence, causing their minds to become super aware
and their instincts to be amazingly sharp. Those who
feel, think and act for them self exemplify the big
wave pioneer spirit. Surfer or non-surfer they will
assuredly ride the tidal waves of human accomplishment.
Perpetuating the Spirit of Surfing
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