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The
Origins of Surfing
Did you ever wonder how surfing and
surfboards came to be? Most people agree surfing started
in Hawaii although some say there is strong evidence
surfing could have originated in Peru, yes Peru. While
no one can prove the exact origins of surfing we do
know it began within cultures that were dependant on
the ocean for survival. By practicing surfing, natives
in addition to having fun, also improved ocean knowledge
and water skills so crucial for perpetuating their indigenous
lifestyle. In Peru hundreds of years ago off a place
called Chan Chan, fishermen would take out one-man reed
canoes and after completing their catch would ride the
waves into the shore standing...up something they still
do today.
In Hawaii, the Hawaiians rode huge surfboards
they called Olo's. These original surfboards were quite
long and heavy often twelve feet and longer weighing
in excess of seventy pounds. No wonder these guys were
in such good shape just getting the board to the beach
would have been a tremendous workout.
Olo boards were carved out from the
hard wood of Koa trees. The longest surfboards were
usually reserved for the alii (royalty) while the makaaaina
or commoners used shorter boards. Shaping an olo was
no easy task as everything was done by hand. After the
koa was selected it was carved out using primitive tools
such as an adz which was made out of a sharpened rock.
When the shape was completed it was smoothed out by
rubbing small pebbles over it for a fine finish. Lastly,
natural oils would be applied to help preserve the wood
and keep the water out. You can imagine the time involved
in creating just one surfboard. Amazingly there are
still actual boards from the 1800's in exsistance and
if you ever visit Honolulu's Bishop museum you can see
some well preserved early surfboards.
After the missionaries arrived surfing
was declared kapu or forbidden. It wasn't until the
early 1900's that the father of modern surfing Duke
Kahanamoku and his "hui" popularized surfing
by performing surfing exhibitions world wide.
Not everyone rode the long olo boards.
Some Hawaiians rode waves on their stomachs with short
boards known as paipo's. The small paipo boards were
generally made from Breadfruit trees. Paipos were the
original " belly boards" that have become
our modern day soft-foam body boards. Surfing and surfboards
have come a long way since the early days. Now the whole
world knows about surfing not just the people who live
along the coast or an island.
Modern surfboards are made out of high
tech materials like polyurethane foam and resin or special
high density foams and epoxy resins virtually indestructible
and very light weight. Instead of months to produce
one surfboard today's boards come off assembly line
machines or sophisticated molds and can be popped out
quickly in staggering numbers with high glossy polished
finishes.
Although cultures aren't dependant on
tribal water skills to survive any longer surfing still
plays a vital part in our society in many other ways.
With this in mind we all owe a bit of thanks to whoever
the original free thinker was centuries ago who using
only his or her hands and imagination started it all.
Though we don't know who exactly who first began surfing
we do know their legacy lives on more popular than ever.
See you in the surf.
Master surfboard craftsmen the Willis
brothers are surfing experts recognized for surfing
the worlds largest waves and teaching thousands in Hawaii
and California to surf.
Come, Live the Life
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