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Waves are Fun
Waves
are lots of fun. Changing size, shape and velocity the
pounding surf invites our spirits to soar high.
But if you look closely, you will notice a line has
been drawn in the sand. A border that stretches out
into the Pacific separates swimmers from surfers. At
many California beaches, there are firmly established
areas zoned especially for safe swimming. Conversely,
there are surfing zones established ostensibly to keep
surfers out of the way of swimmers.
Some would argue the surfing zone is more perilous than
the swimming zone. After all, surfers use hard surfboards
with sharp fins and pointed fronts. Many surfers choose
not to wear safe, protective leashes causing loose boards
to be hurled in with the waves like lethal projectiles.
Of all the rescues performed in the surfing zone, 99
percent are surfers. During the summer, in the hours
between 7 and 9 a.m., it is common to see lifeguards
guarding two or three swimmers while 40 to 70 surfers
remain unsupervised.
Presently, anyone with a surfboard is allowed in the
waves. Should surf shops be allowed to rent boards to
people who don't know how to surf? We know where the
lip of a breaking wave falls. Who has responsibility
when people who have no ocean experience are allowed
to enter the surfing zone?
How are new surfers to get the information they need
to learn surfing safely? Lifeguards don't dispense surfing
knowledge. Nouveau surfers are left to fend for themselves.
Although some local public schools have advanced surfing
programs, astonishingly, not one school has an introductory
surf program.
It is assumed the surfers know what they are doing.
This is true for experienced surfers, but what about
the beginner? Beginning surfers now outnumber experienced
surfers. What if your son or daughter, mom, dad, friend,
brother or sister wants to try surfing? Who's watching
out for them?
To a large degree, the surfing zone is anarchy and ruled
by a strict pecking order. The surfing population is
exploding and the average summertime surfer is 15 and
has little or no experience. Perhaps surfers should
take a competency test before entering the ocean. Competence
levels would need to be defined and established. Local
surfers should be included in those discussions for
their valuable experience and knowledge. No one has
spent more time in the surfing zone than surfers. No
one is more qualified to help set intelligent standards
and guidelines for the safety and benefit of everyone
than local surfers.
Throw in inexperienced surfers and the risk level goes
way up for everyone. Should a complete novice be allowed
to surf in an already crowded spot during a pumping
swell? Most surfers would say no. However, there are
no policies to prevent this from happening, officials
are not aware, or apathetic of the hazards created in
situations like this that could be prevented.
Scuba diving and skydiving are activities where a short
course is required before participation is allowed.
Would it be prudent for non-surfers to take a course
before entering the surfing zone?
As crowds increase, will protective helmets become necessary
like in other sports such as football, boxing and skiing?
Is there a standard of maximum capacity established
for safe surfing conditions in the surfing zone? The
answer is no. An elevator is allowed only so many people
at the same time, as are many restaurants and other
public areas. In the surfing zone, there are no such
capacity limits.
Alarmingly, the state and city lifeguard programs are
geared exclusively towards swimmers. Many lifeguards
don't surf further adding to a lack of leadership and
guidance in the surfing zone.
Beginning surfers need to learn basic water safety and
surfing etiquette before ever entering the water.
Beach use, especially in the surfing zone, has to keep
up with the times. We cannot put our heads in the sand
and pretend growth is going away. A preemptive approach
combining a coalition of local surfers, environmental
groups, lifeguards, city officials and business leaders
working together can develop a plan. Future generations
to come will be affected by policy or lack of policy.
Surfers should demand a voice and representation in
formulating future policies. In fact, no meaningful
policies effecting the surfing zone should be sanctioned
without their support. By surfers speaking up, surfing
will have a voice. Longtime surfers are a valuable community
asset whose wealth of surfing knowledge is available
nowhere else.
Like the line between the swimming zone and surfing
zone, is there a line between freedom and the right
to use the surfing zone safely?
Who will step up to the plate to lead, helping to preserve
and protect our free American beaches, while establishing
safe beach policies? A preemptive approach can work
to meet the needs of the beach, the community, state
and individual beach user. We can intelligently brace
and plan for future growth by forming a coalition of
surfers, lifeguards, business leaders and city officials.
Lifeguard presence is concentrated in swimming zones.
The surfers themselves guard surfing zones on many beaches.
No official safety standards or guidelines have been
established. Some surfers resort to surf rage to enforce
unofficial, albeit prudent, beach policy since no one
else is there to do the job.
Antiquated beach policies are about as up to date as
the rotary phone. Currently, assumption of risk and
surfing go hand in hand.
American beaches are free for all to use, but the lack
of a safe surfing zone could be costly. Surfers and
beach goers should work together to keep American beaches
free while at the same time safe for all.
See you in the surf.
The
Willis Bros. are surfing experts recognized for surfing
the worlds largest waves and teaching thousands in Hawaii
and California to surf.
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