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Waves Not War
A common assumption that many believe,
is everyone in California is a surfer and knows how
to surf.. The truth is, less than 99.9% of all the people
on the planet have ever ridden a wave. While difficult
to believe, less than fifty years ago there were people
in the United States who didnft even know the ocean
had waves. Jump ahead to 2003 and there are still far
more who have not surfed a wave than have.
Anyone who has surfed on top of a wave is a member of
an elite fraternity and part of a tight knit global
surfing community. Watching waves from the shore, it
would appear there is no order or reason, only chaos.
It is often rumored that surfers are territorial and
aggressive if not downright hostile. In isolated cases
this can be accurate. Vastly, surfers these days share
in the aloha spirit. Here are a few tips to help keep
the peace and harmony of the surfing brotherhood and
shed some light on the most common surfing faux pas
that can lead to surf rage.
The surfing zone has no real lifeguard presence, so
surfers must take responsibility for their own safety
as well as trying to watch out for everyone else catching
waves. Before ever entering into the surfing zone, take
the time to familiarize yourself with basic surfing
etiquette for a safer and more enriching experience.
Never paddle close behind another surfer because a wave
will wash him or her in and you will collide. Also,
when paddling out try and hold onto your surfboard and
donft depend on the leash. It is the responsibility
of the paddler to stay out of the way of an incoming
surfer. In-coming surfers have the right of way over
those paddling back out. Anticipate where an incoming
surfer will be and stay out of the way. Some options
are to paddle out over the wave if there is time, donft
paddle at all if it is close so that the surfer can
maneuver around, and if necessary, paddle away from
the direction of anyone riding the wave. Bottom line,
do anything possible to avoid an incoming surfer and
stay out of the way never interrupting a ride.
Once out in the lineup with the rest of the surfers,
wave priority or wave possession is determined by a
strict pecking order. Generally, the more skilled or
better surfers get their waves from positioning. It
takes more skill to be in the most critical part of
the wave and closet to the curl. This determines the
right of way. If someone is up and riding, let that
wave go! Do not drop in. This ruins the ride and is
considered very disrespectful and probably the most
cardinal sin in surfing.
When two surfers stand at the same time, the surfer
in the front should kick out as soon as possible so
as not to interfere with the surfer closet to the curls
ride. Other times surfers will take off on the same
wave together but each will go in the opposite direction.
This is called splitting the peak and is cool.
Another golden rule is to respect the locals. People
who have been surfing a spot for years, have paid their
dues and developed a position in the lineup. Ways to
show respect include not hogging waves and not dropping
in on someone already riding. Just because you might
have a bigger board and can catch all the waves, share
them with the others.
More ways to show respect for locals and the beaches:
Never bring glass containers to the beach.
Always pick up the trash you brought
with you.
Tear up plastic rings from six packs
to protect wild life.
Remember a kind word or smile goes along
way.
Those who are excited and enthusiastic are said to be
living in the moment. That is one of the main attractions
of surfing. To be able to catch the waves rolling in
is a privilege. Many wars have been fought so that we
can all be free and share in the bounty of waves harmoniously.
While no one owns the waves, we can all get along and
have more fun just by showing respect, using common
sense and practicing surfing etiquette.
Many are discovering surfing for the first time. They
are also learning surfing brings people together. Neophyte
surfers, sage surfers and surfers from all over the
globe surf harmoniously. Surfing knows no boundaries,
borders, race or religion. Imagine if all of the global
leaders got together and took up surfing and learned
to share waves, possibly the world would be a more peaceful
place.
Sea you in the surf!
The Willis Bros. are surfing experts
recognized for surfing the worlds largest waves and
teaching thousands in Hawaii and California to surf.
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