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Victory at Sea
One
of the largest fall swells hit in early November. Informed
surfers knew of the impending barrage of waves well
in advance. Five days before the swells predicted arrival
local and international surfers began calculating where
to go.
Mavericks off San Francisco, the Cortez banks, and Todas
Santos an island off Ensenada in Mexico were the first
logical considerations. However, a substantial storm
forecast to pelt the entire west coast of California
gave Todas Santos the best chance for maximum wave size
with hopefully good conditions.
Rumors were rapidly going around the surfing community.
Some claimed the Nor Cal surfers were all going including
scores of other intrepid big wave riders and the lineup
would be dangerously over crowded. Others expressed
concern for the prevailing winds and tides g Itfs
going to be too windy,h or gThe tides will be too
high for good waves.h Still, there were those who thought
the waves would be too huge to surf at all. With the
off-shore wave measuring buoys going ballistic, this
might not have been to far off.
It turned out after all the hoopla and anticipation
very few surfers actually showed up, but the waves sure
did.
Strong powerful swells came pounding in, some estimated
at 40 feet and higher. Big wave surfing at Todas Santos
is reserved for experts so it is no coincidence some
of the best big wave surfers were in the lineup. Arguably
the current reigning king of Todas is Mysto Man, Greg
Russ. Russ reaffirmed his position when after letting
several waves pass by, he finally selected and rode
a horrendously large epic barrel. He was the only one
to do this. Another stand out was 22 year old Brian
Connelly from Solana Beach, surfing waves that proved
he is a big wave surfer of international class.
Two highly promoted California surfers Mike Parsons
and Brad Gerlach were also out attempting to ride the
wild surf. After what seemed hours Parsons finally got
into a nice medium size wave taking a great drop before
wiping out and disappearing into the bowels of the wave.
At times the ocean was calm and then suddenly the waves
would become massive. Waves would rapidly roll in cresting
for a brief moment before exploding with loud thunderous
force.
One very special surfer that went out that day wasnft
a rated professional or known (yet) as a big wave surfer.
17-year-old McCall Willis was the youngest surfer to
challenge the hard breaking waves of Todas Santos and
also the only girl.
The boat she arrived in was ironically named gCorizoneh
which in English translates into "Heart".
After the Corizone anchored 100 or so yards off the
break it was McCall who exclaimed gLet me out there!h
Of the surfers on the Corizone she would be the first
to break the ice, an honor going to the most courageous.
Others watching from the safety of their boats were
astonished as she launched into a thick 15ft. wave.
Streaming down the face, her back towards the wave she
angled perfectly down the line. The others had told
her that she wouldnft do it, but that just made her
more determined to be the first one out in the line
up.
Here
she was getting the wave of a lifetime. That was until
the wave started to make its' way towards the rocks
and boulders on the island shore. With the lip of the
wave barring down on her, she made an effort to bail
out. In her hazed state she landed face up on the surfboard
before going over the falls. The rocks were about 100
ft. away and she was being swept closer by the moment.
By the time McCall came up she was on top of a sharp
barnacle incrusted rock. Another powerful wave was headed
directly towards her. Feeling like she was going to
vomit she dove into the on coming white water and through
the back of the wave. Fortunately for McCall, Oceansidefs
big wave aficionado Scott Chandler seeing the gravity
of the situation swooped in. Showing his true character
and heart under pressure he maneuvered his thrill craft
threading through the exposed boulders to rescue her.
With super awareness, skill and quick response time
Chandlerfs successful rescue in hazardous surfing conditions
was heroic.
Some
Surfers later credited McCallfs heartfelt effort as
their inspiration to push their own personal limits.
McCall demonstrated heart by getting into the line up
and further by riding a wave many would never consider.
She put all her heart into surviving a very perilous
situation.
Just like McCall if you fully and honestly want something,
put your heart into it. Some times the victory is in
trying. Sometimes victory is found in over coming the
trials and tribulations of the quest. Sometimes a persons
true character and heart determine or have a direct
influence on the end results.
See
you in the surf.
The Willis Bros. are surfing experts recognized for
surfing the worlds largest waves and teaching thousands
in Hawaii and California to surf.
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