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Friction in the Surf in San Diego
Shoot
the curl in San Diego, bash the lip, cut back are just a few of the
ways surfing' diatribe uses to describe acrobatic maneuvers
performed on waves on all sizes and shapes. Surfers
are always looking for the next "perfect wave",
an oxymoron considering all waves arc perfect, unique
and special. In this case surfers are referring to the
shape of the wave. A perfect wave doesn't break in front
of itself, it flawlessly peels in either direction from
start to finish. It all begins and ends with a disturbance
and friction.
All waves originate from some type of a disturbance.
To understand this it helps to know what causes waves
and where they come from. Gravitational pull from the
moon and sun, earthquakes undersea volcanic eruptions
all produce waves, but the most common force that creates
waves is wind. Far out in the ocean wind blows across
a smooth water surface. The distance that the wind blows
in a straight direction is called the fetch. Wind molecules
stretch the surface water by grabbing onto surface water
molecules creating small ripples known as capillary
waves. As the water molecules begin to move they start
to travel in circles. This circular motion of water
molecules continues vertically underwater. Motion decreases
quickly the deeper it descends into the water.
The capillary waves create more water surface that allows
the wind to grab even more water. This added energy
increases the waves and makes them larger and larger.
Even after the wind slows down or stops the waves continue
on their journey. Here is where it gets interesting;
most people believe the ocean is moving. While this
appears to be true in actuality energy bands or waves
are moving through the water. The water itself is stationary.
A nice way to illustrate this is to take a hose or rope
by the end and with the flick of the wrist send a wave
through to the other end. The moving energy is visible
from one end to the other, but the molecules of the
hose or rope remained stationary.
The phenomena of friction not only begins the waves,
it also ends them. As waves approach the beach and the
depth of the ocean decreases, the bottom of the waves
energy contacting the ocean floor is slowed down because
of friction. The surface water traveling faster because
of less friction begins to overtake and spill over causing
waves to break, much to the delight of surfers. Some
say the energy of the breaking wave continues forward
and travels through the land.
Waves generally spill or plunge over. Waves that spill
arc more sloped, the crest rolls down the wave face
like a powerful avalanche of snow. Plunging breakers
can form an air tube when the lip of the wave lunges
forward and out. Surfers refer to these majestic waves
as barrels or lubes. To stand inside a breaking wave
surrounded by the entire ocean is euphoric and truly
the highest reward of all surfing experiences and can
be the most dangerous.
Ocean plungers can hurl 200 pound boulders more than
one hundred feet into the air, damage buildings 100
to 300 feet above the sea and have enough energy when
harnessed to light the city of New York for over ten
minutes.
Disturbances and friction that cause waves are a surfers
best friend. Be advised that disturbances and friction
in daily life cause waves too. These waves are equally,
if not more, powerful. Use the disturbances and friction
in your life to ride waves of change, waves of freedom,
waves of expression. It will make all the difference
for a smooth ride and aid in the eternal quest for the
perfect
Sea you in the surf.
The
Willis Bros. are surfing experts recognized for surfing
the worlds largest waves and teaching thousands in Hawaii
and California to surf.
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