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Surfing facts

The Willis Bros. have surfed all over the world: Brazil, Peru, Mexico, all of California, Australia, France, Spain, and beyond!

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Sharing Safe Surfing Information

 

Summertime and the beach go together like blue skies and sunny days. Ahhhh, summertime. School is out. Family vacations are happening. People are getting together outdoors, and everything is positive. During summertime the beach is the in-place to be and surfing is the in-thing to do. Millions of enthusiastic people will be at Southern California beaches this summer and many will be trying surfing for the first time. Knowing safe surfing information beforehand will help keep surfing safer for all. Those who are learning as well as advanced surfers are wise to understand, practice and share safe surfing information. Sharing surfing information is sharing aloha.


Safe surfing begins with knowledge and respect. Experienced surfers approach the ocean with deep respect and full awareness. Before ever going into the water a thorough, albeit brief, surf check is performed. By pausing a moment and first checking the conditions clever surfers can determine where the best waves are and any possible hazards ahead of time. One can learn a lot just by taking five or more minutes to survey the ocean. See what you might be getting into beforehand. Which way is the current going? Is it strong, are there any rip tides? Rocks? How big are the waves? How often are the waves coming in? All this information and more helps the advanced surfers stay out of trouble and get more waves. Experienced surfers benefit by doing a surf check before ever going out.


Knowledge some surfers might take for granted such as how to spot a riptide or even knowing riptides exist, would have saved many who have drowned had they only known. Many riptides begin close or even on the shoreline and are easy to spot. Every beachgoer should know what to look for. Look for areas of water that are choppier than surrounding water, often white capping. Rip tides can be very strong and dangerous to those who unknowingly swim against them. If you are caught in a riptide swim parallel to the beach until you are out of it. While there are rip tides there is no such thing as an undertow. Experienced surfers use rips to help make getting out to the waves easier.


Almost everyone who is beginning at surfing, is sure to wear a protective surfing leash. Leashes are a good idea for everyone, especially in crowded conditions, near rocks or other possible hazards. Experienced surfers prefer quick release cord straps on all of their surfing leashes. It is very important for a surfer to be able to take a leash off quickly with their eyes shut before entering the water. If, for some reason, a surfer became submerged while his leash was tangled with a lobster trap, the reef below, or even another surfer preventing him from surfacing, knowing how to get the leash strap off quickly, could save his life.
When it comes to protective surfing leashes for safety there is no one-size-fits-all. Experienced surfers choose just the right size cord for the optimum surfboard performance and safety. Surfing cords that are too short for a surfboard will spring back quickly, greatly increasing chances for injury. Cords that are to long can pull against a submerged surfer holding them under the water longer than necessary. A good rule of thumb is the length of a surfing protective leash should be the same length as the surfboard.


When surfing in Southern California experienced surfers do the stingray shuffle, sliding their feet one after the other never lifting either foot while walking out to the waves. By sliding along, instead of stepping along, the percentages of avoiding contact with a ray are greatly increased. The best thing to do if stung by a stingray is to soak the wound in hot water. But itfs better not to get stung in the first place. Whether going in the ocean for the first time or millionth time all are wise to be like the experienced surfer and practice the stingray shuffle.


Experienced surfers watch out for others. People donft have eyes on the back of their heads and cannot always control the power of a wave. If someone or a surfboard gets washed back into a surfer entering the water itfs the surfer entering the waters fault. Those entering the waves take responsibility to avoid others by never being or paddling directly behind another surfer. Watching out for others is more than safe surfing its also good surfing. Surfers riding in on a wave are assumed to have right away and appreciate uninterrupted rides.


For the experienced surfer even wiping-out is a science. Ask a surfer who knows and they will tell you, surfers who fall haphazardly during a wipe-out have higher chance of injury. Rule number one, avoid falling off a surfboard into the water head first. When falling off a surfboard while riding a wave, fall flat off the back of the surfboard or into the wave. By falling off the back of the surfboard or into the wave the surfboard goes away from your body, not towards it. To prevent spinal injuries, those who inadvertently wipe-out headfirst should always try to get their arms out in front of themselves. Experienced surfers try not to fall, but when they do, they always try to fall off the back of the surfboard or into the wave. Avoiding a surfboard and the bottom during a wipeout is the safest way.


Under the water during a wipeout, time will seem to expand for some. What is literally a few seconds can seem like much longer when it isnft. When under water during a wipe out, it is important not to begin surfacing too early. It is best to wait for the wave to let up before coming up. If using a protective leash try to feel or get a sense of where your surfboard is. Be aware if your surfboard is pulling against you, it may be ready to spring back. Let the surf leash go somewhat slack before rising. Experienced surfers know just when to come up and thatfs when the waves push calms down.


Above all, experienced surfers have learned, some the hard way, to always cover your head after a wipe out. Even a soft surfboard when hurled with the power of an ocean can cause head or facial damage. Experienced surfers cover their heads by placing their hands over their head and elbows in front of their face. No matter how many times a surfer wipes out or if the wipeout is severe or not, experienced surfers cover their heads every single time. Covering the head after a wipe out is a good habit all surfers should practice all the time.


Safe surfing knowledge can go along way in keeping our beaches and surfing safer for all. When experienced surfers share safe surfing information everyone wins; lifeguards, locals, visitors, beach goers and surfers alike. By sharing safe surfing information with others, experienced surfers show respect for the ocean and surfing. Sharing safe surfing information is sharing aloha and will help make surfing safer for all. Sea you in the surf.

The Willis Bros. are surfing experts recognized for surfing the worlds largest waves and teaching thousands in Hawaii and California to surf.

 

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