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Sharing Safe Surfing Information
Summertime
and the beach go together like blue skies and sunny
days. Ahhhh, summertime. School is out. Family vacations
are happening. People are getting together outdoors,
and everything is positive. During summertime the beach
is the in-place to be and surfing is the in-thing to
do. Millions of enthusiastic people will be at Southern
California beaches this summer and many will be trying
surfing for the first time. Knowing safe surfing information
beforehand will help keep surfing safer for all. Those
who are learning as well as advanced surfers are wise
to understand, practice and share safe surfing information.
Sharing surfing information is sharing aloha.
Safe surfing begins with knowledge and respect. Experienced
surfers approach the ocean with deep respect and full
awareness. Before ever going into the water a thorough,
albeit brief, surf check is performed. By pausing a
moment and first checking the conditions clever surfers
can determine where the best waves are and any possible
hazards ahead of time. One can learn a lot just by taking
five or more minutes to survey the ocean. See what you
might be getting into beforehand. Which way is the current
going? Is it strong, are there any rip tides? Rocks?
How big are the waves? How often are the waves coming
in? All this information and more helps the advanced
surfers stay out of trouble and get more waves. Experienced
surfers benefit by doing a surf check before ever going
out.
Knowledge some surfers might take for granted such as
how to spot a riptide or even knowing riptides exist,
would have saved many who have drowned had they only
known. Many riptides begin close or even on the shoreline
and are easy to spot. Every beachgoer should know what
to look for. Look for areas of water that are choppier
than surrounding water, often white capping. Rip tides
can be very strong and dangerous to those who unknowingly
swim against them. If you are caught in a riptide swim
parallel to the beach until you are out of it. While
there are rip tides there is no such thing as an undertow.
Experienced surfers use rips to help make getting out
to the waves easier.
Almost everyone who is beginning at surfing, is sure
to wear a protective surfing leash. Leashes are a good
idea for everyone, especially in crowded conditions,
near rocks or other possible hazards. Experienced surfers
prefer quick release cord straps on all of their surfing
leashes. It is very important for a surfer to be able
to take a leash off quickly with their eyes shut before
entering the water. If, for some reason, a surfer became
submerged while his leash was tangled with a lobster
trap, the reef below, or even another surfer preventing
him from surfacing, knowing how to get the leash strap
off quickly, could save his life.
When it comes to protective surfing leashes for safety
there is no one-size-fits-all. Experienced surfers choose
just the right size cord for the optimum surfboard performance
and safety. Surfing cords that are too short for a surfboard
will spring back quickly, greatly increasing chances
for injury. Cords that are to long can pull against
a submerged surfer holding them under the water longer
than necessary. A good rule of thumb is the length of
a surfing protective leash should be the same length
as the surfboard.
When surfing in Southern California experienced surfers
do the stingray shuffle, sliding their feet one after
the other never lifting either foot while walking out
to the waves. By sliding along, instead of stepping
along, the percentages of avoiding contact with a ray
are greatly increased. The best thing to do if stung
by a stingray is to soak the wound in hot water. But
itfs better not to get stung in the first place. Whether
going in the ocean for the first time or millionth time
all are wise to be like the experienced surfer and practice
the stingray shuffle.
Experienced surfers watch out for others. People donft
have eyes on the back of their heads and cannot always
control the power of a wave. If someone or a surfboard
gets washed back into a surfer entering the water itfs
the surfer entering the waters fault. Those entering
the waves take responsibility to avoid others by never
being or paddling directly behind another surfer. Watching
out for others is more than safe surfing its also good
surfing. Surfers riding in on a wave are assumed to
have right away and appreciate uninterrupted rides.
For the experienced surfer even wiping-out is a science.
Ask a surfer who knows and they will tell you, surfers
who fall haphazardly during a wipe-out have higher chance
of injury. Rule number one, avoid falling off a surfboard
into the water head first. When falling off a surfboard
while riding a wave, fall flat off the back of the surfboard
or into the wave. By falling off the back of the surfboard
or into the wave the surfboard goes away from your body,
not towards it. To prevent spinal injuries, those who
inadvertently wipe-out headfirst should always try to
get their arms out in front of themselves. Experienced
surfers try not to fall, but when they do, they always
try to fall off the back of the surfboard or into the
wave. Avoiding a surfboard and the bottom during a wipeout
is the safest way.
Under the water during a wipeout, time will seem to
expand for some. What is literally a few seconds can
seem like much longer when it isnft. When under water
during a wipe out, it is important not to begin surfacing
too early. It is best to wait for the wave to let up
before coming up. If using a protective leash try to
feel or get a sense of where your surfboard is. Be aware
if your surfboard is pulling against you, it may be
ready to spring back. Let the surf leash go somewhat
slack before rising. Experienced surfers know just when
to come up and thatfs when the waves push calms down.
Above all, experienced surfers have learned, some the
hard way, to always cover your head after a wipe out.
Even a soft surfboard when hurled with the power of
an ocean can cause head or facial damage. Experienced
surfers cover their heads by placing their hands over
their head and elbows in front of their face. No matter
how many times a surfer wipes out or if the wipeout
is severe or not, experienced surfers cover their heads
every single time. Covering the head after a wipe out
is a good habit all surfers should practice all the
time.
Safe surfing knowledge can go along way in keeping our
beaches and surfing safer for all. When experienced
surfers share safe surfing information everyone wins;
lifeguards, locals, visitors, beach goers and surfers
alike. By sharing safe surfing information with others,
experienced surfers show respect for the ocean and surfing.
Sharing safe surfing information is sharing aloha and
will help make surfing safer for all. Sea you in the
surf.
The Willis
Bros. are surfing experts recognized for surfing the
worlds largest waves and teaching thousands in Hawaii
and California to surf.
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