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Rubber
Arms
Without a doubt, one of the world's
most challenging surfing spots is the famous Banzai
Pipeline on the North Shore of Oahu. Powerful, winter
ocean swells come out of deep water exploding over a
very shallow reef causing extremely hollow and dangerous
waves. Pipeline is not for beginners. It is the proving
ground for the world's best surfers.
In waves of this caliber, there is very little room
for error and absolutely no room for doubt or hesitation.
Surfing Pipeline requires much more than athletic skill
or bravado. It requires a steadfast commitment to catch
a wave, stay on the surfboard and finish the ride.
Whole-hearted, unwavering commitment is how good surfers
become great.
Imagine standing on the coarse Hawaiian sand, looking
out at waves that have enough force to easily snap a
surfboard in half. Hearing the loud explosions and the
roar these monsters make can be very intimidating.
Talk about pre-game jitters. One error in judgment or
timing can have catastrophic results for surfers who
wipe out. Just getting off the beach takes supreme fortitude
and focus that can only come from being 100 percent
committed.
Once in the lineup, the waves of Pipeline are even more
intimidating than from back on shore. Those who are
not committed don't belong out there and are actually
a hazard to themselves as well as others.
Because the waves break in the same place every single
time, surfers sit shoulder to shoulder as they wait
for the steep waves to come in. Drops are incredibly
vertical and waves break hard and fast. Once a surfer
decides to go for a wave, he or she is expected to catch
it. Surfers who paddle for a wave, hesitate and miss
it more than once are relegated to the back of the line.
Experienced surfers have a term for those who appear
to be trying to catch waves but never do. They're called
rubber arms. Rubber arms are surfers who turn to catch
a wave, making all the paddling movements while not
really going anywhere.
Surfers who have rubber arms don't really want to drop
in; the situation is much too intense. Many times, those
who practice rubber-arming end up stuck at the top of
the wave, get pitched out and experience some of the
worst wipeouts. This is the price paid for not being
fully committed and putting out a halfhearted effort.
Pipeline greats such as Kelly Slater, Gerry Lopez and
Liam McNamara know from experience. Once they turn for
a wave, they must go, even if the wave turns out not
to be the best. They must commit to a wave. There will
be no turning back. No matter how impossible a drop
may seem, it's full bore.
Most of the time, a surfer will be in the tube even
before making it down the face of a wave. Deep inside
a cylindrical Pipeline wave, it sounds like a jet engine.
Some surfers in this position can't handle the pressure
and actually jump off their surfboards and bail out.
These surfers hit the panic button on waves that otherwise
would be easily ridden. It's not that easy to hang in
there, especially if you cannot see the way out.
Often, while surfing way back in tubes, the exit will
be blocked by collapsing white water. Sometimes, extra
powerful waves will "spit" or shoot out a
forceful cloud of sea spray as they break. Surfers riding
deep within the bowels of such waves have had sea spray
shot into their eyes, making it impossible to see the
way out.
Even surfing while temporarily blinded, veteran Pipe
riders remain committed to staying on their surfboard.
They surf by feel and bailing out is not an option.
There is only one thought and that is to make the wave
and finish the ride.
At Pipeline, it is easy to spot those surfers who give
it their all despite uncertain odds or external conditions.
Many times, it's not necessarily the best surfers who
get the best rides but the ones who never give into
fear or doubt. These surfers are the ones who get the
super long tubes with rides that border on miraculous.
Surfing the waves of Pipeline truly tests a person's
commitment.
When we commit ourselves to school, relationships, our
work or even surfing, we set the stage for success.
Without true commitment, we are just like a surfer who
rubber arms. We go through the motions never fooling
anyone, not even ourselves.
Halfhearted effort in anything will only result in disaster.
When we commit to our goals, aspirations, hopes and
dreams, doubt and fear totally disappear, and we finish
what we start. The characteristics of being 100 percent
committed are fortitude, truth and inner strength.
Those who maintain and hold fast to finishing what they
start, even in the darkest moments, will be the ones
rewarded with unlimited success that borders on miraculous.
Sea you in the surf.
The Willis Bros. are surfing experts
recognized for surfing the worlds largest waves and
teaching thousands in Hawaii and California to surf.
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