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Great Surfers Pay Their Dues
When
we see a surfer performing spectacular maneuvers with
amazing grace and style it makes surfing look like the
easiest thing to do in the world, and for that person
it is. Good surfers catch a lot of waves because they
have developed the skill and understanding to do so.
To become good at surfing requires more than mere physical
prowess; to become great requires more than superior
talent. Behind every great surfer is hours upon hours,
weeks and years of endless practice and dedication.
Surfers call it paying dues. Three key ingredients that
enable surfers to become great are struggle, sacrifice
and humility.
One doesnft generally associate struggling with surfing.
In actuality the practice of surfing does indeed involve
struggle as well as a lot of work. For many beginning
surfers paddling out can be a struggle. With waves constantly
breaking one after another many times it can be quite
challenging just to get beyond the swells. Even as surfers
advance and learn to paddle out more efficiently there
will be times when strong currents or winds will put
up obstacles making it difficult to catch waves. Every
surfer, even the best ones experience circumstances
that cause struggling.
Struggle begets mental and physical strength. By never
giving into the struggle of paddling out through pounding
never ending waves, surfers develop muscle and mental
fortitude to rise above challenges. The longer surfers
endure going through struggles the deeper reserves of
strength there will be to rely on. Every great accomplishment
that has ever occurred in surfing is the result of someone
overcoming some type of struggle. In fact for any activity
or human endeavor to be considered great it must involve
some degree of struggle.
To become a great surfer requires a great deal of sacrifice.
Those surfers who have become great, have done so because
of the time and resources they put into their practice.
Many surfers sacrifice economic freedom for personal
freedom. Imagine if the best surfers in the world had
put all their time into moneymaking endeavors. Who knows,
anyone this dedicated just might end up as one of the
wealthiest people in the world. Where your heart is
so is your treasure.
Sacrifice begets purity. Itfs through sacrifice that
things and situations accrue their value. If you give
up a lot to acquire something itfs going to mean a
whole lot more than if itfs given to you. When you
sacrifice, work hard, and achieve something great, no
one can take that satisfaction away from you, youfve
earned it. When someone actually earns accomplishment,
people are not jealous or envious, instead they are
awe-inspired and moved. There is no such thing as a
great accomplishment with out sacrifice.
Itfs interesting to note that as a general rule, the
better the surfer the less false pretense and the more
humility there will be. Unlike other sports were there
is conquest, winners, and losers, surfing doesnft work
this way. Great surfers already know in the long run
the ocean always wins. As long as mankind goes surfing,
no matter how many or how large waves he or she rides,
the ocean waves are no match. To an ocean wave even
the greatest surfer is but a child playing. Sure many
great surfers go into large surf with confidence but
few if any will boast gI am the greatesth especially
since most big wave surfers know a wave can take them
out in an instant. You canft be too cocky going into
the waves or they just might knock you down.
Humility begets respect. There is a saying amongst big
wave surfers that goes, gIf you go out with an attitude,
prepare to be humbled.h To be great, surfers have to
experience and learn respect, this begins with being
humble. Surfers learn not only to respect the ocean
and waves they also learn to respect others, themselves
their equipment and the environment. Humility and respect
come from feeling as if you are apart of something greater
than yourself. Showing and demonstrating respect shows
one cares and when one truly cares fantastic things
happen.
As it turns out the very characteristics that go into
making a great surfer, struggle sacrifice and humility
are the building blocks for all greatness. People experience
struggle every single day. Those who struggle the hardest
and yet persevere go on to do great things. As the German
philosopher Nietzsche says, gWhat doesnft destroy
me makes me stronger.h Those who sacrifice understand
the value of commitment and hard work and are willing
to pay the price for real success that lasts. Society
respects and loves those who remain humble even in victory.
Those who have struggled and sacrificed donft have
to have an attitude or brag the results of their actions
say it all.
Be like a surfer who struggles to paddle out, embrace
challenge and struggle with unshakable resolve to succeed
and you will develop inner and outer strength that can
be acquired no where else.
Count your blessings and embrace sacrifice with hard
work and experience the miracles first hand of a life
worth living. Practice humility, respect others, yourself
and the environment, and expand personal boundaries
beyond imagination. Like great surfing and all other
great accomplishment, everything begins with struggle,
sacrifice and humility, surfers call it paying dues,
and the rewards for those who persevere are priceless.
Sea you in the surf.
The
Willis Bros. are surfing experts recognized for surfing
the worlds largest waves and teaching thousands in Hawaii
and California to surf.
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