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Freedom at the Beach
Waves are lots of fun. Changing size,
shape and velocity the pounding surf invites our spirits
to soar high. Closer to earth if you look closely you
will notice a line has been drawn in the sand. A border
that stretches out into the Pacific separating swimmers
from surfers. At many California beaches there are firmly
established swimming zones especially for safe swimming.
Conversely there are surfing zones established ostensibly
not for safe surfing but rather to keep surfers out
of the swimmers way.
Who will step up to the plate to lead, helping to preserve
and protect our free American beaches, while establishing
safe beach policies? A preemptive approach can work
to meet the needs of the beach, the community, state
and individual beach user. By forming a coalition of
surfers, lifeguards, business leaders, and city officials
we can intelligently brace and plan for future growth.
Lifeguard staff presence is concentrated in the swimming
zones. The surfers themselves guard surfing zones on
many beaches. No official safety standards or guidelines
have been established. Some surfers resort to surf rage
to enforce unofficial, albeit prudent beach policy,
since no one else is there to do the job. Antiquated
beach policies are about as up to date as the rotary
phone. Currently assumption of risk and surfing go hand
in hand. It is assumed the surfers know what they are
doing. This is true for experienced surfers, but what
about the beginner? Beginning surfers now out number
experienced surfers. What if your son or daughter, mom,
dad, friend, brother or sister wants to try surfing?
Whofs watching out for them? Presently to a large degree
the surfing zone is anarchy and ruled by a strict pecking
order. The surfing population is exploding and the average
age of a summertime surfer is fifteen and has little
or no experience.
Of all the rescues performed in the surfing zone 99%
are credited to surfers. During summertime in the early
morning hours between 7 and 9am it is not uncommon to
see the lifeguard staff guarding two or three swimmers
while 40 to 70 surfers remain unsupervised or guarded.
Although some local public schools do have advanced
surfing programs, astonishingly not one school has an
introductory surf program. Perhaps beginning surfers
or all surfers should take a competence test before
entering the beach. Competence levels would need to
be defined and established. Local surfersf input should
be included for their valuable experience and knowledge.
No one has spent more time in the surfing zone than
surfers. No one is more qualified to help set intelligent
standards and guidelines for the safety and benefit
of everyone than local surfers.
How are new surfers to get the information they need
to learn surfing safely? As it is now lifeguard services
and public schools donft dispense surfing knowledge.
Nuevo surfers are left to fend for themselves. Throw
in inexperienced surfers and the risk level goes way
up for everyone. Should a complete novice surfer be
allowed to go out surfing in an already crowded surfing
spot during a pumping swell? Most surfers would say
no. There are no policies to prevent this from happening;
officials are not aware, or apathetic of the hazards
created in situations like this that could be prevented.
Presently anyone with access to a surfboard is allowed
in the waves. Should surf shops be allowed to rent surfboards
to people who donft know how to surf? Policy is non-existent.
We know where the lip of a breaking wave falls, where
does the onus fall when people who have no ocean experience
are allowed to enter the surfing zone? Scuba diving
and skydiving are two examples where a short course
is required before participation is allowed. Would it
be prudent for non-surfers to take a course before entering
the surfing zone and safer for all?
Some would argue the surfing zone is more perilous than
the swimming zone. After all surfers use hard surfboards
with sharp fins and pointed fronts. Many surfers choose
not to wear safe protective leashes causing loose boards
to be hurled in with the waves like lethal projectiles.
As crowds increase will protective helmets become necessary
like in other sports such as football, boxing, skiing?
Is there a standard of maximum capacity established
for safe surfing conditions in the surfing zone? The
answer is no. An elevator is allowed only so many people
at the same time as are many restaurants and other public
areas. In the surfing Zone there are no safe standards
established as of yet. Alarmingly the state and city
lifeguard programs are geared exclusively towards swimmers.
Many lifeguards donft surf, further adding to a lack
of leadership and guidance in the surfing zone.
Beginning surfers need to learn basic
water safety and surfing etiquette at the minimal level
before ever entering the water.
Beach use especially in the surfing zone has to keep
up with the times. We cannot put our heads in the sand
and pretend growth is going away. A preemptive approach
combining a coalition of local surfers, environmental
groups, lifeguards, city officials and business leaders
working together can develop a plan. Future generations
to come will be affected by policies or lack of policies.
Surfers should demand a voice and representation in
formulating future policies. In fact no meaningful policies
affecting the surfing zone should be sanctioned without
their support. By surfers speaking up surfing will have
voice. Long time surfers are a valuable community asset
whofs wealth of surfing knowledge is available no where
else.
Like the line between the swimming zone and surfing
zone, is there a line between freedom and the right
to use the surfing zone safely?
American beaches are free for all to use, but the lack
of a safe surfing zone could be costly. Surfers and
beach goers should work together to keep American beaches
free while at the same time safe for all. Sea you in
the surf.
The Willis Bros. are surfing experts recognized for
surfing the worlds largest waves and teaching thousands
in Hawaii and California to surf.
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