*Swami's named after Yogananda
*France has more to offer than wine.
*Maui no ka oi
*Willis reef exposed
Seven Wonders of the World
(great surfing beaches)
Ever wonder where the best waves for surfing are located on the planet? Well that depends on what you think the best waves should be. Wonder no more the following are seven wondrous world class surfing locations we have chosen to begin with.
Swami's --Encinitas, California
There is a renowned surfing beach named Swami's located in North San diego, California. Swami's is renowned for it's high quality long peeling perfectly shaped waves. Though Swami's is an awesome small wave it gets it's reputation for being one of the few beach's that can handle sizable sized surf and still maintain quality shape. Many surfers consider Swami's not only a sacred surfing beach but also a sacred spot.
Obviously Swami Parmahansa Yogananda thought this beach/point was sacred he had an ashram built over looking the waves. Way back when a man named Lynn purchased the point from the Noonan family as a gift for Swami Yogananda. Yogananda founded the Self Realization Fellowship and the rest is history. It's said the Swami, who had long flowing hair and wore traditional as well as native apparel, enjoyed taking walks on the beach and spending time meditating in front of the ocean waves. Anyone who has read Yogananda's autobiography would speculate he chose this particular spot because he felt some kind of cosmic energy or direction to do so. Turns out the point he chose to reside on is the point that just happens to have, what some surfers would consider --sacred waves.
Rusty Miller and Tommy Lewis were among the earliest surfers to surf Sawmi's but as to who came before them and actually coined the name "Swami's" in reference to Yogananda and the S.R.F. fellowship it's still a mystery. Swami's does have a left but it's primarily a right breaking wave.
Uluwatu, Bali, Indonesia
Indonesia is a surfers paradise. For the discriminating surfer who likes quality waves especially long left handed hollow waves Indonesia rates at the top. Before most traveling surfers venture out to remote surfing spots such as Nias or Grajagan they usually get acclimated by surfing Uluwatu. Uluwatu is a left handed point break that spills over a dangerously sharp reef causing it to be really hollow at times. For those surfers that thrive on that kind of action Padang Padang just around the corner can be even more spectacular. Though primarily known for small to medium sized wave Ulu's can get big, real big by anyones standards. Though crowded with surfers from all around the world and a few hard core locals empty waves can still be obtained especially when the waves reach ten feet or higher. Even on a crowded day there seems to always be enough waves to satisfy all the surfers. Uluwatu's lineup is generally spread out with surfers catching waves way out the back to surfers riding the very tail end of the wave. With Indonesia being a "third world country" food and shelter can be very inexpensive at least by western standards.
Hossegor, France
France is well known for fine wine and pastries what isn't well known is France also has some fine, really fine waves. Who would have thunk it but France waves break year round and can exceed thirty feet high in the winter. There are a plethora of high quality waves but in southwest France, of these, one of the better known locations is Hossegor. Hossegor breaks a lot similar to Duranba in Australia that is to say the peak is always shifting and the wave shape changing all the time. Some waves can be really hollow others just roll on through to the shore. France has quite a surf scene going on. Each year they host professional and top rated amateur surfing contests. The only glitch to an other wise perfect surfing beach is the sometimes bitter cold in the winter months. However with a good wetsuit, hood and booties the empty winter waves are well worth the frost bite.
Malibu, California
Malibu is one of if not the most famous surfing spots in the world. Yes Malibu does have some amazingly well shaped waves especially in the summer months but it's primary fame comes from early surfing movies such as "Gigit" depicting surfing culture as wet and wild. Malibu is a rocky point wave that very rarely exceeds eight feet high. But when the Bu is on what it lacks in size it makes up in length of ride. Topanga beach just south and County Line just north offer similar quality waves but it's Malibu that carries the "mystic" Just maybe the most famous surfer to be associated with Malibu is the late Micky "the cat" Dora. Dora was known as a bit of a hellion in that he was known to not like sharing "his" waves especially if he was surfing on the inside. The fact is Malibu is such an easy breaking, long and perfect wave ten surfers can all ride the same wave in peace and harmony if they know what their doing.
Kirra, Queensland, Australia
Do you love long peeling waves, perfect barrels and kangaroos than you would love surfing the long right handers of Kirra point in Australia. Kirra point is legendary not only for it's awesome shaped waves but also for the wild life that has emerged through out the years. Nat "the Animal" Young, Midget Farrelly, Keith Paul and Michael Peterson were some of the first surfers to really put Kirra on the map of the surfing world's top surfing spots. South of Kirra is Coolangatta which is where former ASP world surfing champion Wayne "Rabbit Bartholomew grew up surfing. Kirra located on the gold coast is blessed with a good climate but be sure to bring plenty of the zinc mate or you'll be lookin like ya burned ya face on the barby mate.
Honolua bay, Maui
Emerald colored cylindrical cathedrals of water in juxtaposition to lush green verdure and electric peridot blue skies help make Honolua bay, Maui one of the most magical surfing spots on earth. It's said some people pick up or give off certain vibes. Can a surfing spot have a vibe? If ever a surfing spot had a "vibe" it would be Honolua bay. Honolua is the kind of wave that when it's working pound for pound it's equal to or better than 99.9 percent of top rated waves in the world. Though Honolua does have it's "magical days those type of days are not an everyday event. It would be safer to say surfing Honolua over fifteen feet with perfect conditions is more like a supernatural event. While Honolua bay is known for it's magical perfection Honolua isn't the only premiere surfing spot on Maui. If your into thrills and giant waves you could always try Jaws in Peahi, Maui. Many people consider Jaws one of the world's best big wave surfing locations. Big wave surfer Laird Hamilton is credited with putting Jaws on the map. There are photographs of Hamilton tow-surfing jaws that seriously look unfathomable. Fortunately for those surfers who prefer safer thrills Maui is an island so if the surf is big on one side you can sometimes find perfect ridable small waves on the other side. Positive vibrations -- Maui no ka oi.
Willis reef, Solana beach, California
Willis reef is a little known surfing spot located in the small costal city of Solana Beach. Back in the early fifties very few people knew where Solana Beach was let alone Willis reef. Milton Willis (senior not to be confused with jr,) would bring his sweet heart Sandra to Solana Beach for romantic get aways and to play in the waves. He found the best waves were located off the bluff south of Fletcher cove. By mid sixties he had married Sandra bought a house in Solana Beach and had twin boys-- Milton and Michael. The house Willis chose was located slightly inland but directly in front of where his favorite waves were. Willis planted two small eucalyptus which grew large enough for him to see from the bluff over looking the waves. As there were not a whole lot of residents back then what few there were that enjoyed the beach and waves began calling the surfing spot Willis reef". The general area used to be known as Cherry Hill. Now days new comers will sometimes refer to Willis reef as Rock Piles. Interestingly enough the San Diego Union tribune ran a story a few years back on giant waves hitting the coast. There was a follow up letter from an eye witness who stated he saw Milton Willis (j.r.) riding a legitimate twenty foot wave on a rubber surfboard at you guessed it Willis reef.
Please send your comments or request to add a surf spot here and we will post them.
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